This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.
| Both sides previous revisionPrevious revisionNext revision | Previous revision | ||
| hai [01.07.2022:1341] – [灰型] aequivinius | hai [08.08.2026:2301] (current) – [Washing] aequivinius | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
| - | |||
| =====灰===== | =====灰===== | ||
| [[literature|CQ82]] really is the 灰 issue, covering types, history, and one instruction for 灰型. In 茶の湯, 5 types of ash are used. | [[literature|CQ82]] really is the 灰 issue, covering types, history, and one instruction for 灰型. In 茶の湯, 5 types of ash are used. | ||
| - | For 風呂 and 炉, ashes are ideally made of oak (//Quercus acutissima// | + | <WRAP alert> |
| + | |||
| + | For 風炉 and 炉, ashes are ideally made of oak (//Quercus acutissima// | ||
| - | * **風呂灰** also called silky **ふくさ灰** | + | * **風炉灰** also called silky **ふくさ灰** |
| * **炉灰**, which is the same (but coarser) as above, but coloured with cloves and ばん茶 | * **炉灰**, which is the same (but coarser) as above, but coloured with cloves and ばん茶 | ||
| * **フジ灰** (white wisteria ash) | * **フジ灰** (white wisteria ash) | ||
| * **わら灰 (藁灰)** (straw ash) | * **わら灰 (藁灰)** (straw ash) | ||
| * **ヒシ灰(菱灰)** (red caltrop ash) | * **ヒシ灰(菱灰)** (red caltrop ash) | ||
| + | |||
| + | There' | ||
| + | |||
| + | ^ 風炉 ^ 炉 ^ | ||
| + | | 80 holes per cm² | 40 | | ||
| + | | only sieved | sieved and washed | ||
| + | | not coloured | coloured | ||
| + | | stored dry | stored in air-tight ceramics so it stays moist all year | | ||
| + | |||
| + | ====Washing==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | 👆 Only the 炉 ashes are washed, the 風炉 ashes are just sifted. After having washed and sifted the 炉 ashes often enough, you can even " | ||
| + | |||
| + | For me, I found this approach works: All 炉 ashes are washed, and I don't make separate しめし灰. I do 3 turns with water, aromatising the ashes on the last turn. ⚠️ Wear kitchen cloves while working with the ashes ⸻ they don't tear, protect well, and you can mix the ashes in the water with them! | ||
| + | |||
| + | - Gather ashes, sieve them into a bucket. (Maybe the sieving is not really necessary, because they get sieved afterwards.) | ||
| + | - Prepare aromatising tea: I used cloves (traditional), | ||
| + | - Fill bucket with water, mix well (just with the gloved hand). Skim off the shit on the surface. Wait a few hours, pour off the somewhat clear water. Add some more water, mix again, wait a few hours, and pour off. | ||
| + | - For the third rinsing, use the aromatised water. Dump it all into an Utz box lined with a burp towel, hang the towel overnight to drain. | ||
| + | - Then dry either in the sunlight or the oven at 100°, breaking up clumps every now and then. At > 30°, the 炉 ashes were fine after about 4 days. | ||
| + | - Because I don't have a specific sieve for the 炉 ashes, sieve them with a kitchen sieve. | ||
| ====ふくさ灰==== | ====ふくさ灰==== | ||
| Line 18: | Line 40: | ||
| {{youtube> | {{youtube> | ||
| - | When 風呂 ends, ash should be sieved and stored in an air-tight container; and used over and over again until it becomes greenish-yellow. | + | When 風炉 ends, ash should be sieved and stored in an air-tight container; and used over and over again until it becomes greenish-yellow. |
| ====炉灰==== | ====炉灰==== | ||
| Line 27: | Line 49: | ||
| ☝️ Sieved with 40 holes per cm² | ☝️ Sieved with 40 holes per cm² | ||
| + | |||
| + | ☝️ Someone on discord said they are stored in sake barrels, which I like. | ||
| ====フジ灰==== | ====フジ灰==== | ||
| Made burning from wisteria (フジ) bean pods; or dried cedar needles (then it's technically せん香灰, | Made burning from wisteria (フジ) bean pods; or dried cedar needles (then it's technically せん香灰, | ||
| - | At the beginning of summer, you use less; toward the middle you use more, and towards the end less again. | + | At the beginning of summer, you use less; toward the middle you use more, and towards the end less again. Always add this just before you begin, not the night before. |
| ====わら灰==== | ====わら灰==== | ||
| Made by soaking straw, ideally wheat or rice, remove husk and soak in salt water for one hour. (About 70 grams salt per litre, to stiffen them up.) Half-dry the straw and bake in an almost airtight container until no smoke emerges any more. Open only when cooled down, otherwise they will ignite. ({{ :: | Made by soaking straw, ideally wheat or rice, remove husk and soak in salt water for one hour. (About 70 grams salt per litre, to stiffen them up.) Half-dry the straw and bake in an almost airtight container until no smoke emerges any more. Open only when cooled down, otherwise they will ignite. ({{ :: | ||
| - | Used for the やつれ風呂 in October, by forming the ash with the 二もんじ, | + | Used for the やつれ風炉 in October, by forming the ash with the 二もんじ, |
| {{ :: | {{ :: | ||
| Line 42: | Line 66: | ||
| ====ヒシ灰==== | ====ヒシ灰==== | ||
| - | Reddish ash made by roasting the shells of caltrop nuts (Trapa japonica, // | + | Reddish ash made by roasting the shells of caltrop nuts (Trapa japonica, // |
| {{ :: | {{ :: | ||
| Line 49: | Line 73: | ||
| Strictly not part of 茶の湯, but Christians use the ash from previous year's Palm Sunday on Ash Wednesday just before lent; it might be a cute idea to use it, too. | Strictly not part of 茶の湯, but Christians use the ash from previous year's Palm Sunday on Ash Wednesday just before lent; it might be a cute idea to use it, too. | ||
| - | =====Flexions===== | + | ====Flexions==== |
| - | * Set the trivet so that it is equidistant from all walls. | + | 風炉の七歪 or 七つひねり, differs from school |
| - | * Then, according to some old text described in [[literature|CQ82]], | + | |
| - | * Then, move the trivet a bit to the left, and the brazier a bit to the right. | + | |
| - | * Other texts go even further in arguing for //seven flexions// (風炉の七歪, ひずみ) — the one in CQ82 is a bit confused, so I jumbled this list together with what I could find on the internets. However, this is not a topic that many people write about; so maybe it was just some 先生 who wanted to correct // | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | - Trivet half a centimetre to the front | + | |
| - | - Kettle a bit tilted to the front (so far, so good) | + | |
| - | - Kettle twisted towards the host | + | |
| - | - Brazier twisted towards the guest | + | |
| - | - Fireguard twisted a bit towards the guest (at least [[https:// | + | |
| - | - Ashes go slightly down from left to right, and front to back | + | |
| - | - 柄杓 slightly towards the host | + | |
| - | =====灰型===== | + | |
| - | | + | |
| - | * Also, it gives away easily the degree of his accomplishment. | + | |
| - | * 利休 came up with this idea when he was riding on the beach with 織部 | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | There are 9 ash forms in 裏千家 today: | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | - 二文字 押し切り(おしきり) | + | |
| - | - 二文字 書き上げ(かきあげ) | + | |
| - | - 丸灰 押し切り | + | |
| - | - 丸灰 書き上げ | + | |
| - | - 向 一文字 前谷 (むこ まえたに) | + | |
| - | - 遠山(とおやま)一山(ひとつ) | + | |
| - | - 遠山 二山 | + | |
| - | - 向山(むこう) | + | |
| - | - 鱗灰(うろこ)(only for highest 点前) | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | {{ :: | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | {{ :: | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | * Start by brushing the surface into the right shape. Doing it with a brush makes sure it is already even, making it easier to flatten. | + | |
| - | * For 鱗灰(うろこ), | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | =====灰さじ===== | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | * Flat one is ひらば or こばん | + | |
| - | * Pointy one is ささば (like bamboo) | + | |
| - | * Round one is まるば. This you can bend more to your liking with a towel, if it' | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | ☝️ Copper is the best | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | * To make a complete | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | =====Notes dump from seminar===== | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | shin: mayu earthernware, | + | |
| - | gyo: everything bronze and other shapes | + | |
| - | so: cast iron | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | ita | + | |
| - | shin: arame ita : black lacquer, horizontal rays, wider to front than far side ; use for black clay or bronze | + | |
| - | plain shin nuri | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | generally: grain should show towards the guest (on bottom shelf, middle | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | iron furo you use ceramic tile (usually oribe) | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | HAI | + | |
| - | finely sifted (fukusa bai) (and the japanese got specialised sieves for it, looking like a mehlsieb | + | |
| - | > 80 holes to 1 cm^2 | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | ro > 40 holes to 1 cm^2 | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | > ask at barbequee restaurants | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | haisaji | + | |
| - | hiraba (flat) (or koban) | + | |
| - | sasaba (like bamboo) | + | |
| - | maruba (round) (bend a lot) | + | |
| - | > copper is best | + | |
| - | > can be bend carefully in a towel (if it’s not lacquered) | + | |
| - | very light brush to straighten the surface | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | this should suffice, but there are larger sets | + | |
| - | ogawadori konnichi sell helpers, | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | add a brush or feather | + | |
| - | and a bag of fujibai (when not using a iron one; adding more during high summer than at the beginning and end) | + | |
| - | a chopstick for writing the trigram | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | TOKIMURABURA (designed by Gengensai and smaller by Tantansai | + | |
| - | Tokiwa _> set, iron; green lacquer with red rim | + | |
| - | -> all purpose practise buro | + | |
| - | seishikisumagora | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | furotobai to shin no gyo | + | |
| - | make nimonji oshikiri, grind ash with a little water, and put every fish scale down each one by one | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | warabai in october, also standard nimonji oshikiri; put them down one by one with tweezers and cut with very fine scissors | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | hosho paper, folded like for a kaishi for sweets | + | |
| - | > or just use newspaper like fabio | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | for non-iron furo you use a white mae gawara, for tetsu / iron use red | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | getting a new urushi furo, start with smaller fires to break it in otherwise it will crack | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | (today there are "clay furo" made of metal and lacquered, so that they are lighter) | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | toyama useful for larger furo | + | |
| - | > chose according to aesthetic considerations$ | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | height for kirikake -> its the gitcho | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | even though you can get people in japan to do haigta for you, at a chaji it is essential you do the haigata (and clean the toilet) yourself | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | do haigata the day before, but fujibai just before | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | toyama | + | |
| - | right in hongatte | + | |
| - | make one side of front line round (use the bent spoon) | + | |
| - | then form the mountain top | + | |
| - | then brush the rest (making sure there’s enough room for charcoal) | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | mukoyama in nakaoki | + | |
| - | + | ||
| - | + | ||
| - | ===Ashes=== | + | |
| - | * [[https:// | + | |
| - | =====☵===== | + | - 風炉 turned towards guests (this one everyone seems to agree on) |
| - | [[https:// | + | |
| + | - 五徳 slightly forward | ||
| + | - 釜 slightly backward (far side higher) | ||
| + | - 前瓦 away from guest | ||
| + | - 灰型 highest in front left, lowest in back right | ||
| + | - 柄杓 a bit towards | ||