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CQ82 really is the 灰 issue, covering types, history, and one instruction for 灰型. In 茶の湯, 5 types of ash are used.
For 風呂 and 炉, ashes are ideally made of oak (Quercus acutissima or serrata, though I'd really rather use the latter for storing whisky in it); but, kindly enough, they say that pine or any other wood are satisfactory 🤷♂️ Or, as 織部 did, you use ash from the Uji tea driers. Or, as Fabio does, get it from a Pizza restaurant.
Sieved and washed, that means, put in a bucket, pour water on it, churn and skim off debris. Strain, dry in the sun; repeat; then finally put through a silk sieve (see video below).
☝️ Sieved with 80 holes per cm²
When 風呂 ends, ash should be sieved and stored in an air-tight container; and used over and over again until it becomes greenish-yellow.
The ashes for 炉, however, are not stored in an airtight container, but in a ceramic jar; and then in the summer it is treated: Washing, coarse sieving, and sprinkled while drying with clove or ばん茶.
☝️ I probably would've just washed it in clove juice, and then dried, but someone in Hurtebise 22 said it might grow mould in this way.
☝️ Sieved with 40 holes per cm²
Made burning from wisteria (フジ) bean pods; or dried cedar needles (then it's technically せん香灰, incense-stick ash). So clean, sometimes some ふくさ灰 is mixed in to make it more interesting.
Made by soaking straw, ideally wheat or rice, remove husk and soak in salt water for one hour. (About 70 grams salt per litre, to stiffen them up.) Half-dry the straw and bake in an almost airtight container until no smoke emerges any more. Open only when cooled down, otherwise they will ignite. ( See example.)
Used for the やつれ風呂 in October, by forming the ash with the 二もんじ, and putting it on top with tweezers, cutting each piece to size. Also used for the round がん炉 in the 水屋; and hand-warmers, in which case it is powdered or broken.
Reddish ash made by roasting the shells of caltrop nuts (Trapa japonica, Wassernuss in German, ヒシ in Japanese) and grinding them; used for charcoal for 香 and on the タバコ盆. Could be mixed with fresh, uncoloured ふくさ灰 to colour it a bit; but that'd be cheating.
Strictly not part of 茶の湯, but Christians use the ash from previous year's Palm Sunday on Ash Wednesday just before lent; it might be a cute idea to use it, too.
There are 9 ash forms in 裏千家 today:
☝️ Copper is the best
shin: mayu earthernware, takeno joo mayu buro or ooburo ( too large for the daisu) gyo: everything bronze and other shapes so: cast iron
ita shin: arame ita : black lacquer, horizontal rays, wider to front than far side ; use for black clay or bronze plain shin nuri
generally: grain should show towards the guest (on bottom shelf, middle
iron furo you use ceramic tile (usually oribe)
HAI finely sifted (fukusa bai) (and the japanese got specialised sieves for it, looking like a mehlsieb
80 holes to 1 cm^2
ro > 40 holes to 1 cm^2
ask at barbequee restaurants
haisaji hiraba (flat) (or koban) sasaba (like bamboo) maruba (round) (bend a lot)
copper is best
can be bend carefully in a towel (if it’s not lacquered)
very light brush to straighten the surface
this should suffice, but there are larger sets ogawadori konnichi sell helpers,
add a brush or feather and a bag of fujibai (when not using a iron one; adding more during high summer than at the beginning and end) a chopstick for writing the trigram
TOKIMURABURA (designed by Gengensai and smaller by Tantansai Tokiwa _> set, iron; green lacquer with red rim → all purpose practise buro seishikisumagora
furotobai to shin no gyo make nimonji oshikiri, grind ash with a little water, and put every fish scale down each one by one
warabai in october, also standard nimonji oshikiri; put them down one by one with tweezers and cut with very fine scissors
hosho paper, folded like for a kaishi for sweets
or just use newspaper like fabio
for non-iron furo you use a white mae gawara, for tetsu / iron use red
getting a new urushi furo, start with smaller fires to break it in otherwise it will crack
(today there are “clay furo” made of metal and lacquered, so that they are lighter)
toyama useful for larger furo
chose according to aesthetic considerations$
height for kirikake → its the gitcho
even though you can get people in japan to do haigta for you, at a chaji it is essential you do the haigata (and clean the toilet) yourself
do haigata the day before, but fujibai just before
toyama right in hongatte make one side of front line round (use the bent spoon) then form the mountain top then brush the rest (making sure there’s enough room for charcoal)
mukoyama in nakaoki
Palmer explains that the trigram ☵ is written because it not only represents water, but also north, thus establishing the host facing north.