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Traces its origins to the Imperial court (Heian period!), now traditioanlly served at 裏千家's 初釜.
LK explained that for some time it was even 裏千家-exclusive, with
表千家 using the 織部饅頭.
It's 求肥 wrapped around a candied burdock stick (裏千家 traditionally uses 2) and some 味噌餡. It's name comes from a red layer of diamond-shaped 求肥 that peeks through the white.
However, I've seen all sorts of variations: The 中あん being coloured red directly or the burdock stick being replaced with a compote (that's used as 中あん) (see
here).
Since burdock is not so easy to find, I'm using salsify (🇩🇪 Schwarzwurzel) which works really well (or even better 🙊).
Recipe
Best to assemble them just before serving
Roll out 求肥 (about 3 mm) and cut 8 cm circles. Roll them again a bit so that they end up slightly oval. Brush the inside.
Place candied salsify in the middle. The skin should face what will end up the front side. (I heard some comments that in 裏千家 now the folded side is the front 🤯
Place some red coloured 求肥 (just add some beet juice while cooking it) on what will be the top side. Traditionally, they are diamond shaped, but I think round (but smaller) is a bit easier.
Place 味噌餡 (~ 13 gr) on the bottom side.
Fold and miau miau!
Candied Salsify
Wash thoroughly. I like to leave the skin on, it tastes better and gives a nice contrast to the white 求肥.
Cut into 10 cm sticks, boil a few times (changing the water)
Cut into batons of about 4 mm. Half, third, then cut away the core.
1:1 syrup, place salsify in it, boil, stand overnight.
Start to candy by taking the salsify out and reducing the syrup a bit every day.
➡️ I did it just for 2 days, and it was already quite pleasant!
味噌餡
150 gr 白あん
30 gr white 味噌
5 gr red 味噌
10 gr glucose syrup
50 gr water
➡️ Mix all and heat until dry-ish; but I found that a bit cumbersome and way to 味噌-y, so next time I'd probably use 10:1 ratio and just mix directly. No need for the water nor the glucose. Also use very high-quality 味噌! (For example, one of the very nice Swiss-made ones!)
Ideas
Pairings: Tonka, pear, brown butter, coriander seed, white pepper.
Turn the salsify into あん
Use a beure noisette-味噌餡 as the filling.
Make bâtons with white chocolate and miso to replace the burdock stick (when using salsify-あん)