Questions
Coats (and rain-coats)
Nagajuban comes with a han-eri, which is detachable and should be soaked in soapy water after wearing.
Haori you wear over the 着物.
koshihimo
Putting it on
Carry a てぬぐい to avoid touching the silk itself in the right sleeve.
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Then 肌襦袢, possibly 長襦袢 and then 着物. If using a 伊達衿, use 衿ピン to attach to the 着物 collar.
Fix the collars with a 衿止
If wearing 袴, the belt should be knot in 一文字.
For rainy weather: 足袋カバー, a coat and a 傘.
足袋
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My feet are 25.5 cm, which seems odd, because my EU size is 42.
There are 足袋インナー, which are inner socks, for winter
There are 超撥水 足袋カバー, which are repellant
足袋 socks that you wear over the actual
足袋 for when it's raining
Underwear
The 長襦袢(ながじゅばん)is usually also made from silk, so you wear something underneath that, too! (Also for the legs).
There are a few options, like a 肌襦袢(はだじゅばん), which is just a plain white under-under 着物.
長襦袢
Usually made from silk, with sometimes impressive patterns.
It has a 半襟(はん えり), neckband, which are normally loosely stitched on the 長襦袢. They are meant to be removed and soaked in soapy water to be washed.
These 半襟 are supposed to match the 着物.
However, you only see the collar of the 長襦袢, so instead, you could use a 伊達衿(だて えり), which is just the collar, and which is stitched directly onto the 着物. In that case, you could omit the 長襦袢, and just wear 肌襦袢 directly under the 着物 (in summer, for example).
These days you can use a 重ね衿ピン, a pin, to attach either the 伊達衿 to the 着物 or the 半衿 to the 肌襦袢.
There are also cotton T-shirts with a polyester 半衿 attached. These seem quite convenient. (Search for: 半襦袢 うそつき 襦袢 袷用 日本製 男物 塩瀬 洗える tシャツ 半襦袢 塩瀬 半衿付き 肌襦袢 筒袖 共袖 衣紋なし メンズ)
⚓️ Absolutely use an 衿止(えりどめ)to keep the collars aligned.
着物
| Dress Length | 151 |
| Sleeve Length | 53 |
| Shoulder Width | 37 |
| Sleeve Width | 37 |
dress length is 151, and sleeve length 53
帯
羽織 and 袴
Coat
There are a few different options: a ゴート, 鳶(とんび), マント, 二重回し, 二重マント, インバネスコート or a 道行.
Traditional is a 角袖, but that's difficult to use with Western clothing
Sizes should be the same as for 着物, so a 182 is an LL, and they should be about 125 cm long.
Shoes
Accessories
Storage
衣替え(ころもがえ) on 1 IV and I X: Change clothes from summer to winter (and vice-versa). During this time, also air the 着物 for a day hanging.
畳紙紙(たとうし), acid-free paper encasing for 着物. To prevent light; but also you can label them.
They are 88 × 36 cm, but there are also small (half-size) たとう紙!
When folding the 着物, these can also be spread on the floor to prevent dust from getting into it.
For folding, there are actually different ways for nagajuban, 着物 and haori
Silk 着物 are not prone to be eaten by bugs, but wool is. So use a repellant (camphor blocks or bochu koh; wrap these in paper so they don't come in contact with the silk) to dispel them;
They need air!
Store them folded
To transport, a ふろしき is not a bad idea, folding the 着物 around all the other things you'll wear.
Purchase
正絹 means silk, of which there is 西陣織(にしじん), 縮緬(ちりめん), お召し…
But you can also find ウール, which is not very formal; and also cotton for summer: 綿(わた) or 木綿 (もめん)
紗着物 or 絽着物(しゃ and ろ)are a special silk weaving method producing very light 着物 for summer
| 着丈 | Formula | h = 182 |
| 着物 | k = h - 25 to 27 | 145 |
| 襦袢 | k - 4 | 141 |
| 袴 | k * 0.6 | 84.6 |
My current brown 袴, which is too short, measures 91 cm from the very top. I bought another one, slightly green, that measures 97 cm (and 前紐下長さ of 86 cm). That one seems to be okay
My current 着物, which is fine, but could be a few cm longer, is 159 cm including the neck part