ホモテナシ

  • All this is only about male 着物.

Shopping List

  • 重ね衿ピン
  • 半衿
  • 長襦袢
  • 肌襦袢
  • 衿止

Questions

  • Coats (and rain-coats)
  • Nagajuban comes with a han-eri, which is detachable and should be soaked in soapy water after wearing.
  • Haori you wear over the 着物.
  • koshihimo

Putting it on

  • Carry a てぬぐい to avoid touching the silk itself in the right sleeve.
  • Start with 足袋
  • Then 肌襦袢, possibly 長襦袢 and then 着物. If using a 伊達衿, use 衿ピン to attach to the 着物 collar.
  • Fix the collars with a 衿止
  • If wearing 袴, the belt should be knot in 一文字.
  • For rainy weather: 足袋カバー, a coat and a 傘.

足袋

  • Start with 足袋 socks
  • My feet are 25.5 cm, which seems odd, because my EU size is 42.
  • There are 足袋インナー, which are inner socks, for winter
  • There are 超撥水 足袋カバー, which are repellant 足袋 socks that you wear over the actual 足袋 for when it's raining

Underwear

  • The 長襦袢(ながじゅばん)is usually also made from silk, so you wear something underneath that, too! (Also for the legs).
  • There are a few options, like a 肌襦袢(はだじゅばん), which is just a plain white under-under 着物.

長襦袢

  • Usually made from silk, with sometimes impressive patterns.
  • It has a 半襟(はん えり), neckband, which are normally loosely stitched on the 長襦袢. They are meant to be removed and soaked in soapy water to be washed.
  • These 半襟 are supposed to match the 着物.
  • However, you only see the collar of the 長襦袢, so instead, you could use a 伊達衿(だて えり), which is just the collar, and which is stitched directly onto the 着物. In that case, you could omit the 長襦袢, and just wear 肌襦袢 directly under the 着物 (in summer, for example).
  • These days you can use a 重ね衿ピン, a pin, to attach either the 伊達衿 to the 着物 or the 半衿 to the 肌襦袢.
  • There are also cotton T-shirts with a polyester 半衿(はんえり) attached. These seem quite convenient. (Search for: 半襦袢 うそつき 襦袢 袷用 日本製 男物 塩瀬 洗える tシャツ 半襦袢 塩瀬 半衿付き 肌襦袢 筒袖 共袖 衣紋なし メンズ)

⚓️ Absolutely use an 衿止(えりどめ)to keep the collars aligned.

着物

  • I'm 182 cm, which means I'll usually have a LL size 着物. That means:
Dress Length 151
Sleeve Length 53
Shoulder Width 37
Sleeve Width 37

dress length is 151, and sleeve length 53

  • 袷着物 means lined, which is good outside of summer; for summer its unlined (単衣着物)

  • For men, it's quite easy: Just wear 角帯(かく) with striped patterns
  • The standart know is the 貝の口結び.

羽織 and 袴

  • For 羽織(はおり), I'm not there yet.
  • But 袴, alas!
    • For this, tie the 帯 in 一文字 knot.
    • I'm 182 cm, which means my 袴 should be LL size, which is 96-98 cm.
  • The 袴 can be 馬乗り (which divided legs) or undivided

Coat

  • There are a few different options: a ゴート, 鳶(とんび), マント, 二重回し, 二重マント, インバネスコート or a 道行.
  • Traditional is a 角袖, but that's difficult to use with Western clothing
  • Sizes should be the same as for 着物, so a 182 is an LL, and they should be about 125 cm long.

Shoes

  • 草履 or 雪駄
  • 下駄 for bad weather, though these are considered more casual
  • My 42 in Japan would be a 26 or 26.5

Accessories

  • A bag going through the 帯: 帯掛けポーチ (根付)
  • 巾着(きんちゃく) is a carrying bag
  • 和傘

Storage

  • 衣替え(ころもがえ) on 1 IV and I X: Change clothes from summer to winter (and vice-versa). During this time, also air the 着物 for a day hanging.
  • 畳紙紙(たとうし), acid-free paper encasing for 着物. To prevent light; but also you can label them.
    • They are 88 × 36 cm, but there are also small (half-size) たとう紙!
    • When folding the 着物, these can also be spread on the floor to prevent dust from getting into it.
    • For folding, there are actually different ways for nagajuban, 着物 and haori
  • Silk 着物 are not prone to be eaten by bugs, but wool is. So use a repellant (camphor blocks or bochu koh; wrap these in paper so they don't come in contact with the silk) to dispel them;
    • or put them in a paulownia box! These are usually 91 × 42
  • They need air!
  • Store them folded
  • To transport, a ふろしき is not a bad idea, folding the 着物 around all the other things you'll wear.

Purchase

  • 正絹 means silk, of which there is 西陣織(にしじん), 縮緬(ちりめん), お召し…
  • But you can also find ウール, which is not very formal; and also cotton for summer: 綿(わた) or 木綿 (もめん)
  • 紗着物 or 絽着物(しゃ and ろ)are a special silk weaving method producing very light 着物 for summer
着丈 Formula h = 182
着物 k = h - 25 to 27 145
襦袢 k - 4 141
k * 0.6 84.6
  • My current brown 袴, which is too short, measures 91 cm from the very top. I bought another one, slightly green, that measures 97 cm (and 前紐下長さ of 86 cm). That one seems to be okay
  • My current 着物, which is fine, but could be a few cm longer, is 159 cm including the neck part