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| - | ===Terminology=== | + | * All this is only about male 着物. |
| + | |||
| + | ===Shopping List=== | ||
| + | * 重ね衿ピン | ||
| + | * 半衿 | ||
| + | * 長襦袢 | ||
| + | * 肌襦袢 | ||
| + | * 衿止 | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Questions=== | ||
| * Coats (and rain-coats) | * Coats (and rain-coats) | ||
| * Nagajuban comes with a han-eri, which is detachable and should be soaked in soapy water after wearing. | * Nagajuban comes with a han-eri, which is detachable and should be soaked in soapy water after wearing. | ||
| * Haori you wear over the 着物. | * Haori you wear over the 着物. | ||
| * koshihimo | * koshihimo | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | ===Putting it on=== | ||
| + | * Carry a てぬぐい to avoid touching the silk itself in the right sleeve. | ||
| + | * Start with 足袋 | ||
| + | * Then 肌襦袢, possibly 長襦袢 and then 着物. If using a 伊達衿, use 衿ピン to attach to the 着物 collar. | ||
| + | * Fix the collars with a 衿止 | ||
| + | * If wearing 袴, the belt should be knot in 一文字. | ||
| + | * For rainy weather: 足袋カバー, | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===足袋=== | ||
| + | * Start with 足袋 socks | ||
| + | * My feet are 25.5 cm, which seems odd, because my EU size is 42. | ||
| + | * There are 足袋インナー, | ||
| + | * There are 超撥水 足袋カバー, | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Underwear=== | ||
| + | * The 長襦袢（ながじゅばん）is usually also made from silk, so you wear something underneath //that//, too! (Also for the legs). | ||
| + | * There are a few options, like a 肌襦袢（はだじゅばん）, | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===長襦袢=== | ||
| + | * Usually made from silk, with sometimes impressive patterns. | ||
| + | * It has a 半襟（はん えり）, | ||
| + | * These 半襟 are supposed to match the 着物. | ||
| + | * However, you only see the collar of the 長襦袢, so instead, you could use a 伊達衿（だて えり）, | ||
| + | * These days you can use a 重ね衿ピン, | ||
| + | * There are also cotton T-shirts with a polyester {{ruby|半衿|はんえり}} attached. These seem quite convenient. (Search for: 半襦袢 うそつき 襦袢 袷用 日本製 男物 塩瀬 洗える tシャツ 半襦袢 塩瀬 半衿付き 肌襦袢 筒袖 共袖 衣紋なし メンズ) | ||
| + | |||
| + | ⚓️ Absolutely use an 衿止（えりどめ）to keep the collars aligned. | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | ===着物=== | ||
| + | * I'm 182 cm, which means I'll usually have a LL size 着物. That means: | ||
| + | |||
| + | | Dress Length | ||
| + | | Sleeve Length | ||
| + | | Shoulder Width | 37 | | ||
| + | | Sleeve Width | 37 | | ||
| + | // | ||
| + | |||
| + | * 袷着物 means lined, which is good outside of summer; for summer its unlined (単衣着物) | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===帯=== | ||
| + | * For men, it's quite easy: Just wear 角帯（かく） with striped patterns | ||
| + | * The standart know is the 貝の口結び. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===羽織 and 袴=== | ||
| + | * For 羽織（はおり）, | ||
| + | * But 袴, alas! | ||
| + | * For this, tie the 帯 in 一文字 knot. | ||
| + | * I'm 182 cm, which means my 袴 should be LL size, which is 96-98 cm. | ||
| + | * The 袴 can be 馬乗り (which divided legs) or undivided | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Coat=== | ||
| + | * There are a few different options: a ゴート, 鳶（とんび）, | ||
| + | * Traditional is a 角袖, but that's difficult to use with Western clothing | ||
| + | * Sizes should be the same as for 着物, so a 182 is an LL, and they should be about 125 cm long. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Shoes=== | ||
| + | * 草履 or 雪駄 | ||
| + | * 下駄 for bad weather, though these are considered more casual | ||
| + | * My 42 in Japan would be a 26 or 26.5 | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Accessories=== | ||
| + | * A bag going through the 帯: 帯掛けポーチ (根付) | ||
| + | * 巾着（きんちゃく） is a carrying bag | ||
| + | * 和傘 | ||
| + | |||
| ===Storage=== | ===Storage=== | ||
| * 衣替え（ころもがえ) on 1 IV and I X: Change clothes from summer to winter (and vice-versa). During this time, also air the 着物 for a day hanging. | * 衣替え（ころもがえ) on 1 IV and I X: Change clothes from summer to winter (and vice-versa). During this time, also air the 着物 for a day hanging. | ||
| - | * たとう紙（し）, acid-free paper encasing for 着物. To prevent light; but also you can label them. | + | |
| * They are 88 × 36 cm, but there are also small (half-size) たとう紙! | * They are 88 × 36 cm, but there are also small (half-size) たとう紙! | ||
| * When folding the 着物, these can also be spread on the floor to prevent dust from getting into it. | * When folding the 着物, these can also be spread on the floor to prevent dust from getting into it. | ||
| * For folding, there are actually different ways for nagajuban, 着物 and haori | * For folding, there are actually different ways for nagajuban, 着物 and haori | ||
| - | * Silk 着物 are not prone to be eaten by bugs, but wool is. So use a repellant (camphor blocks, bochu koh; wrap these in paper so they don't come in contact with the silk) to dispel them; or put them in a paulownia box. | + | * Silk 着物 are not prone to be eaten by bugs, but wool is. So use a repellant (camphor blocks |
| + | | ||
| * They need air! | * They need air! | ||
| * Store them folded | * Store them folded | ||
| * To transport, a ふろしき is not a bad idea, folding the 着物 around all the other things you'll wear. | * To transport, a ふろしき is not a bad idea, folding the 着物 around all the other things you'll wear. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Purchase=== | ||
| + | * 正絹 means silk, of which there is 西陣織（にしじん）, | ||
| + | * But you can also find ウール, which is not very formal; and also cotton for summer: 綿（わた） or 木綿 (もめん) | ||
| + | * 紗着物 or 絽着物（しゃ and ろ）are a special silk weaving method producing very light 着物 for summer | ||
| + | |||
| + | ^ 着丈 | ||
| + | | 着物 | ||
| + | | 襦袢 | ||
| + | | 袴 | k * 0.6 | 84.6 | | ||
| + | |||
| + | * My current brown 袴, which is too short, measures 91 cm from the very top. I bought another one, slightly green, that measures 97 cm (and 前紐下長さ of 86 cm). That one seems to be okay | ||
| + | * My current 着物, which is fine, but could be a few cm longer, is 159 cm including the neck part | ||