Taiping Hou Kui (太平猴魁) (lit: peaceful monkey king)
Green tea: Plucked, then heated (steam, roasting or pan frying) to stop enzymatic oxidation, akin to blanching herbs. In this case, pan fried at 120°C, then heated and cooled 3 times to fix color, continue killing the greens, giving shape and, most importantly, removing moisture.
Produced since 1900, during which the area was called taping, hence the name. Uses leaves from a large-leaf cultivar (柿大葉, Shi Da Ye) that only grows in Anhui. It’s not rolled, but pressed during roasting, hence the shape. Green teas often either have a maritime taste (low temperature fired), or a nutty taste (high temperature roasting). This one is neither, but famed for its orchid fragrance.
Legend says that there are many monkeys in Huangshan. One day, a monkey was looking for its lost son, but didn’t find it and died after a few days from exhaustion. An old man buried the monkey out of compassion; and planted a few wild tea seeds and flowers at its grave, as if the monkey was a relative. After a year the man passed the grave, and saw that there many strong tea trees there. He heard a voice telling him that he should look after the trees and he’ll never have to hunger. The old man realised it was the monkey speaking, and thus named the place Hou Gang (猴岗, lit: monkey hill), and the tea Hou Cha (猴茶); and that’s why the tea is called Hou Kui (猴魁).
Menglin thinks this is well paired with shino yaki
Western Tasting: Clear, quite strong greenery, slight nuttiness, after all. It’s from 2008, however.